We met up with our guide Thomas at the port gate into the old city
He gave us a little history and then began to explain the difference between tapas and pintxos.
"San Sebastian has become the culinary capital of the Basque Country as a result of a few factors coming together under the proper conditions. Firstly, it was the summer resort of the Spanish Royal Family during the XIX century, which encouraged it to become the enthusiastic host it is today. Secondly, it is located in a territory, the Basque Country, which is itself a wealthy culinary region and showcases a varied gastronomy with a big capacity to reinvent itself. Finally, the Basque people are very attached to their own culture; they treat it with respect and celebrate its many manifestations in everyday life. In that sense, Basque culture is alive – it is in constant evolution just like its gastronomy, which keeps adapting to new times, new tastes, and new needs".
Pintxos origins are in San Sebastian (Donostia in Basque), where some bars started to create small portions of miniature cuisine (similar to "canapés"), and were displayed on the bar counters so the customers could take them by themselves. This custom evolved, as many more bars started to create differente kind of pintxos, offered in "hot" and "cold" versions.
As we walked along he pointed out what looks like it could be a restaurant, but isn't. It is a "Gastronomy Club. These are private clubs where, historically, men would cook for themselves and enjoy a meal with friends. Membership could be inherited from father to son, or bought (around 700 Euros) if the candidate got the approval of all the club members. Nowadays, San Sebastian has over 100 of these places, and even if some of them keep to the old traditions, like not accepting women as members, others are changing these strict rules and adapting to the changes of society.
The food prepared in the Gastronomy Clubs is probably the best example of the Basque culinary philosophy – emphasis on the quality of ingredients and on sharing high quality meals in a familiar atmosphere. Basically they are an open kitchen with lots of tables for members to sit. If you are Basque and you want to invite your friends for a lunch, you will not take them to your house, but to the Gastronomy Club.
Pintxos or Pinchos (pronounced "peen-chos") are small portions of food, eaten in bars, and are an expression of "miniature cuisine". They come from the Spanish tradition of tapas, which are small portions of food, generaly taken from a bigger part, that are served in many Spanish bars along with the drinks.
Locals and visitors enjoy eating those pintxos as well as drinking, just as an appetizer, or in a sort of pintxos crawling.
The success of the Basque Cuisine, and of the cuisine schools located in San Sebastian, made that many graduated chefs applied their knowledge in the kitchens of the bars, cooking many creations of high quality that now live together with popular recipes that remain through the years.
First stop A Fuego Negro
To live and act like a local, one must conduct oneself properly when visiting s pintxo & tapas bar. If you go to a bar of pintxos & tapas for the first time, these basic rules will help you to behave like a San Sebastian "native".
1- First of all, find some room in the usually crowded tapas bars so you can stand with your company. Try to locate a place where you can leave your drink just in case you need both hands to eat your pintxo.
2- Take a look at the pintxos in the menu and the cold pintxos displayed on the bar counter, and make your choice. Just one or two pintxos, not more.
3- Ask the barman for the hot pintxos, some of which may be displayed on the counter. In this way, you will be assured that the barman will heat those that are supposed to be eaten hot.
4- While they bring you the hot pintxos, you can take cold ones by yourself, with your hands. If you feel more confortable, ask a small dish (don't need a big one for just one or two pintxos).
5- After eating one or two pintxos, and having their drink, most locals change to a different bar. Ask your barmen for the bill, and tell them what you have eaten and drunk. That will show the barman that you know the basics of behaving like a local.
6- Be honest in telling what you consumed, as most locals do (also if you don't want to feel embarrased, as many barmen will memorize what you have taken.
7- You can say "Eskerrik asko", "Mila esker" or "Gracias", to thank them. "Agur" or "Adiós" are the Basque and Spanish words to say good bye.
No fish for me. Beef
Like a slider
cod in a mayonnaise like aioli for Terry
Decor is a little wild
Strolling through Constitucion Square. The facing building was the town hall at one time
The numbers above the apartments have an explanation. At one time the city would set up a bull ring in this square. The owners of the apartments would rent out their balconies to locals who wanted to watch the bull fight, ie. the could buy a ticket for #132 and watch the fight from that location. Very entrepreneurial.
These basic rules will help you not to put one's foot in it...
1- Some bars will offer you a big dish so you can fill it with a dozen pintxos from the bar counter. That is only for tourists. Ask for the pintxos one by one and seldom more than two in each bar. That is the best way to discover the real tradition of pintxos in San Sebastian.
2- Pay when leaving. Some bars ask for the money when served, but that is not the local culture. There is an honest relation between the client and the barmen, which assumes that the drinks and the pintxos are paid for when leaving.
3- Smoking is forbbiden inside the pintxos bars.
4- Throw the paper serviette to the floor. This nasty custom shows that the patron relished and enjoyed the pintxo; however, most bars have bins, or you can also leave the paper on the counter or on your dish so the barman can take it.
Entrance to a shopping mall
where one can find a piece of the old city wall
Headed for the Gros area, a newer part of the city
Crossing the bridge
The railing is new, as high water took out the old one last year. This is the mouth of the river coming off the Atlantic. Even tonight it was cold, windy and damp.
The "Cube" or theater for film festivals
The Maria Cristina Hotel where all the celebs stay during the film festival
Next stop Ramuntxo Berri
Ordering
A young red wine, beef cheeks (very tender & tastes like pot roast) and brie covered in poppyseeds
Last stop Bergarta Bar
Ordering
Local cider, a crab mousse for Terry and a pork loin sandwich with cheese and pepper for me
Learning about places we should see tomorrow and finishing up a lovey evening.
Other options of tapas and pintxos at this tavern
One last picture of Thomas and Monty (bartender/cook) and us.
Another good tour
