Monday, April 6, 2015

Walking tour of Bologna

Sitting in the middle of the Piazza del Nettuno is a magnificent fountain. The Fontana di Nettuno with its “giant” as the locals call it.

The Fountain was created in three years (1563 to 1566) by Flemish Artisan sculptor Giovanni da Bologna. He was later nicknamed Giambologna for his work on the fountain. He was considered one of the best sculptors, second only to Michaelangelo, in the age of mannerism.

The center piece of this sixteenth century work of art is a magnificent Neptune in stride. This muscular bronze statue was quite controversial in its inception. Some people found it indecent and the Catholic Church wanted Giambologna to have the statue’s left hand cover it’s well endowed front. Thanks to defenders of Giambologna’s masterful denouncement that doing so would be artistic castration, the statue has retained the original design of its creator.

The Statue of Neptune stands on a square base, the corners of which are said to represent the four cardinal directions. The cherubs on the corners and the dolphins add a playful touch to the fountain. The gleeful mermaids spurt water from their breasts drawing many male eyes.

The Fontana di Nettuno was never just an ornamental piece. It served as a water source for the outdoor market found on the piazza. The merchants would actually wash some of their goods in its waters.



Il Sacrario dei partigiani in Piazza Nettuno, Bologna

Memorial to the partisans of WWII (1943-1945).

Bologna was one of the Italian cities most affected by the war, both for its importance in the communication/transportation system, and for its location in the rear of the Gothic Line. Between September 1943 and April 1945 the city was occupied by the Nazis. The people suffered from cold and hunger, Allied bombings and Nazi reprisals such as that of Monte Sole. Throughout this period, the courageous action of groups of anti-fascist partisans kept the people’s hopes alive.

A high toll was paid by the Bolognese: the number of civilian deaths under the bombing was 2481, while 2064 partisans were killed. On the morning of April 21 1945 Bologna was free.

Women’s groups began to lay flowers and put up pictures of their loved ones in Piazza Nettuno, on the wall where many partisans had been shot .

Thus was born the shrine of the partisans.

Then
Now

City Hall



The Basilica of San Petronio is the main church of BolognaEmilia Romagna, northern Italy. It dominates Piazza Maggiore. It is the fifteenth largest church in the world, 132 metres long and 66 metres wide, while the vault reaches 45 metres inside and 51 metres in the facade.

The basilica is dedicated to the patron saint of the city, Saint Petronius, who was the bishop of Bologna in the fifth century. The construction was a communal project of Bologna, not of the bishops: the property was a symbol of communal power that was not transferred from the city to the diocese until 1929; the basilica was finally consecrated in 1954. It has been the seat of the relics of Bologna's patron saint only since 2000; until then they were preserved in the Santo Stefano church of Bologna.

Work began on it in 1390, but it was never finished and still today its main facade remains incomplete. Inside, there is a huge sundial that stretches 67.7m down the eastern aisle. Designed in 1656 by Gian Cassini and Domenico Guglielmi, this was instrumental in discovering the anomalies of the Julian calendar and led to the creation of the leap year.

Images taken off the internet


The hole in the roof that catches the sun

The sundial is just one of the basilica's interesting oddities. Another is the fact that it wasn't officially consecrated until 1954. And even then it wasn't as the original plans had intended – those plans had called for it to be larger than Rome's St Peter's, but in 1561, some 169 years after building had started, Pope Pius IV blocked construction by commissioning a new university on the basilica's eastern flank. If you walk along Via dell'Archiginnasio you can still see semi-constructed apses poking out oddly.






The Altar
I actually took these pictures a fw days before Easter
Today when we went into the Basilica, this cross had been replaced with a gold one.


Reliquaries
Artifacts
Etruscan I think





In 2002, five men who it was believed were connected to Al Qaeda and were planning to blow up the building, were arrested. Again in 2006, plans by Muslim terrorists to destroy the Basilica were thwarted by Italian police. The terrorists claimed that a 15th-century fresco inside was insulting to Islam. The fresco, painted by Giovanni da Modena, depicts Muhammad in Hell being devoured by demons.

According to our guide, Mohammed is the figure on the top right


The Archiginnasio

The seat of the ancient university and now the seat of the Municipal Library, the Archiginnasio is one of the most important buildings in the city. It was built in the sixteenth century when Pope IV called for a drastic reconfiguring of the Piazza Maggiore area. The pope commissioned the work through Cardinal Carlo Borromeo because he felt it was important to have all the different university disciplines taught in a one place instead of spread out across different locations like before. Archiginnasio remained the seat of the Bolognese Studium until 1803.


Coats of Arms of students

The Church of Santa Maria della Vita was founded in the second half of the 13th century by the Congregation of Battuti or Flagellati, whose name refers to their habit to whip themselves. The Congregation is one of the first to be born in Italy on the basis of the Organization of the Disciplinati, founded in Perugia in 1260 by Raniero Fasani. The members of the Congregation mainly devoted themselves to charitable activities, thus having a hospital unit and a church built in 1287 (Santa Maria della Vita).



The sculptor Niccolò da Bari, born in 1435 came to Bologna from south of Italy. He became famous as "Niccolò dell'Arca" after creating the famous arch for the tomb of St Dominique in Bologna. Some time between 1465 and 1490, he created a group of 7 terracotta statues, including the dead Jesus and a group of persons crying around him. The statues are larger than life size.

The sculptures of Niccolò dell'Arca are masterpieces of human expression, especially the statues of the two women, Mary and Mary Magdalene. The two women are shown with their mouths open in an eternal shriek, their faces screwed up in sorrow, their clothes flying behind. It seems difficult to believe that these two statues are made of terracotta, they look as if actual persons were turned into clay suddenly, their bodies frozen in eternity.

Joseph of Arimethea who removed Christ from the Cross - the figure on the right is the Virgin Mary
Mary Magdelene is on the right

These extremely dramatic statues of the two women expressing their grief are very uncommon in the Italian art from that period. Usually, the grief around the dead body of Jesus is shown through sad but composed faces.

The skyline of Bologna with its distinctive towers - power symbols belonging to the richest families- was unmistakeable. It must have been like the Manhattan of the medieval ages! There were twin towers here too, only these have held up to centuries of war and become the symbol of the city.

They were strategically located at the point of entry to the city on the ancient Via Emilia. They used to be interconnected, with a walkway and suspended passageways running everywhere.

This is difficult to imagine today when the towers now appear completely separate from one another at the end of one of the city’s widest streets. In addition to displaying family prestige, the towers also served an important military function: defence. By the end of the 12th century, there were a hundred of them throughout the city.

This is truly an astonishing number when you consider that to build a 60 metre tower took anywhere from 3 to 10 years! Only about twenty of these impressive buildings have survived the fires, wars, and lighting strikes and remain standing today.

The taller the tower the richer the owner

The layout of Bologna's 16th century ghetto can still be precisely traced amid the narrow streets in the medieval heart of the city: here, a maze of alleys, covered bridges and small windows tells the story of a whole community forced to live in a specific area of the town by order of the Papal State beginning from 1556. In Bologna, Jews lived in the ghetto until 1569, when they were expelled for the first time.

In 1586, they were allowed to come back to town and lived here again until 1593, year of their final expulsion: 900 people left Bologna and no Jewish community was allowed into town for more than two centuries. 
 
Entrances to the Jewish quarter were opened in the morning, sealed at dusk and constantly watched: one entrance was at the beginning of via de' Giudei, a second one at the intersection between via del Carro and via Zamboni, a third one in via Oberdan, where an arch looks onto vicolo Mandria.
 
The ghetto is undoubtedly one of the most charming areas in town enlivened with artisan workshops and encircled by palaces which belonged to rich Jewish merchants and bankers.


And back to Piazza Maggiore and the end of the tour.



No comments:

Post a Comment