We flew into Lisbon on Wednesday, arriving about 3:30 PM. It was a sunny day up in the stratosphere, but there was a layer of clouds that looked much like a vast snowfield below us. As we descended and made our landing, it was foggy, overcast and cold. Welcome to Lisbon. Took a cab to our apartment which is on Rua dos Correeiros, a walking street. He let us off at the end of the street and we dragged our luggage down the street to our address. Yeah, there is an elevator. The lady was there to meet us and we took care of checking in and getting familiar with the apartment. Two good sized bedrooms and baths, a really big kitchen and a combined living dining space. Ok enough of the housekeeping chores. We set off to explore our little neighborhood Baixa. Found a small grocery and stocked up on essentials. Coffee, fruit and yogurt for breakfast. Then back to get unpacked before dinner.
We found a little restaurant about two doors down from us that we thought was italian. Turns out it was just local Portuguese.
We ordered Fried Pork Portuguese, a local dish. It was delicious. Kind of like a stew made with chuncks of pork, potatoes and little pieces of pickled cauliflower, carrot and bell pepper. Sounds awful, but it was delicious, and as you can see I hated it
We asked for red wine and they brought a little jug which was at least two glasses each. The entire meal was 20 Euro for both of us. Wow! We have definitely left France.
We woke to sunshine, but cold. Still it is a beautiful day and we went walking through the pedestrian area to the Praca do Comercio (Place of Commerce).
Our street looking down from the apartment window Rua dos Correeiro
Next street over Rua Augusta leads to the Praca do Comercio
An impressive monument is the Arco da Rua Augusta, a triumphal arch that leads to the Rua Augusta, a beautifully paved pedestrianized street.
"The arch was originally designed by Santos de Carvalho to celebrate the swift reconstruction of the city after the earthquake of 1755. Construction of the triumphal monument started in 1759 but work was halted soon after. The project was picked up again in 1843 when a new design by architect Veríssimo José da Costa was chosen.
Finally completed in 1873, the monumental arch shows the allegorical figure of Glory crowning Genius and Bravery. Below them are important historical figures and allegorical representations of the rivers Tagus and Douro".
The Praça do Comércio (commerce square) was the centerpiece of the reconstruction after the earthquake of 1755 that reduced the city to rubble. Its main attraction is a monumental equestrian statue of king José I.
it was created by sculptor Joaquim Machado de Castro, one of Portugal's most famous sculptors.
Over the last centuries numerous processions, festivities, concerts and even executions have taken place here.
The square has also been the scene of historic events such as the double assassination on February 1908, when king Carlos and Luis Filipe - the heir to the throne - were assassinated here. In 1974 thousands of people assembled on the square during the revolution that overthrew the dictatorial regime.
Walked back up the pedestrian street to the Rossio Square. Along this street are many buildings with tiled facades and are quite colorful
Officially named Praça Dom Pedro IV, this square has been known as Rossio (meaning 'large public square') since its creation in the Middle Ages, and it is still commonly referred to as such. Rossio the most lively square in the city and it is lined with bustling cafés and shops.
Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II (National Theater)
In 1889 two monumental Baroque fountains were installed on either side of the Monument to Pedro IV.
The two identical fountains were originally cast at the foundry in Val d'Osne, France. The sculptures embellishing the fountains - created by the French sculptors Mathurin Moreau and Michel Lienard - depict mythical figures.
From here we headed down the street to take the elevator up to the Castelo de Sao Jorge. There are actually two elevators. On goes up seven stories, you get off walk up the street a ways and take another elevator up another seven stories or so and then you just keep walking up hill until you arrive at the Castle. Sure beats walking all the way up on winding streets through the Alfama. some of the sights along the way
doggy transport
colorful tile walls and laundry
We arrived at the castle, bought our tickets and then decided to find a spot for lunch before touring the castle. The area on top of the hill is called Castel. We wound our way up the narrow streets.
Just next to this churh we ound a little place for lunch that was built to look like a trolley car. It had only about 8 booths and the kitchen. We had coffee and a really good bowl of bean soup with fresh bread.
Paying up
Walking back down toward the castle
"Castelo Sao Jorge (St George castle) sits perched on top of the highest hill in Lisbon, right in the heart of the Alfama district of Portugal’s historical capital city. Originally constructed in the 5th century by the Visigoths as a fort, it was later transformed into a Moorish castle.
It served as a Moorish royal residence until the Moors were expelled in 1147 by King Afonso Henriques. After this time Portugal’s royal family moved in, and here remained until the 16th century when another palace was constructed for them in Comercio Square.
The castle earned its name of St George Castle when it was captured by King Afonso Henriques. Its dedication to the patron saint of England was made in commemoration of the Anglo-Portuguese pact, which was made in 1371".
The castle complex is enclosed by sturdy outer walls from where visitors have a wide view over Lisbon.
The roof top views were stupendous
"The entrance to the complex leads to the Praça d'Armas (parade ground), an open plaza where a statue of Portugal's first king (Alphonso Henriques) stands amid the trees".
"From here steps lead through a romantic garden with statues along the former royal palace of Alcáçova towards the fortified citadel. The sturdy-looking citadel is enclosed by ramparts that connect eleven crenellated towers".
A little wine with your view (Very entrepreneurial)
Poem inscribed on a bench
Statues in the garden
Peacocks everywhere. This fellow was not interested in strutting his stuff. We watched along time, but he never spread his tail
Finally at the entrance to the castle remains.
I now we have to climb again to the ramparts. These stairs are what I like to call the "steep and deeps"
(very steep and rise so deep you almost need to pull yourself up.
Thank goodness they have added iron hand rails for us short legged oldies.
the ramparts
From the ramparts
Worth the climb
There was a small museum with lots of pot shards and tiles from excavations of the castle
There is a nice restarurant here that we may try while here, but not today. We are headed back down (walking) through the narrow steep hills of the Alfama district. More colorful tile walls, laundry and churches
Very pretty little church
Not my picture but there was a lot of construction going on, so didn't get one
"The Santa Luzia Church is situated in a place of great beauty and symbolism: the Santa Luzia viewpoint from where one has a privileged view over the most typical old quarter of Lisboa: Alfama.
The origins of this Church date back to the first years of Portuguese nationality, built in the 12th century, during the reign of the first Portuguese king, D. Afonso Henriques, by the knights of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta, and dedicated to São Brás, with defensive features as it was situated next to the town walls, on the eastern side of the town.
The present building, built over the previous temple, dates from the 18th century, with many alterations after the big destruction caused by the big 1755 earthquake and tsunami that destroyed a huge part of Lisboa.
The temple is characterized by its Latin cross plan and one-only nave, distributed by the main chapel, the transept and the nave, ten sepulchres in shape of gravestone and funerary monuments, classified as National Monument.
Also quite interesting are the two glazed tile panels signed in the historical Viúva Lamego ceramics factory, representing Lisboa with scenes of the conquest from the Moors in 1147and another one illustrating the Comércio Square before the big 1755 earthquake that forever changed the face of Lisboa".
and just outside the church the patio overlooking the Alfama district. This tile work was on the side of the church
Heading on down the hill, we ran across this really strange tree with
a really knobby root system
You can see faces and toes and any number of imaginative things in this root
Another cathedral (one of many I'm sure)
Time for a coffee break and to try the local famous dessert
pastéis de nata. The Pastelarias – these are the pastries that can be found throughout the city, the pastéis de nata being the primary favorite of the Portuguese people. They are typical served fresh and warm right out of the oven and then served with sweet sides such as cinnamon and confectioner’s sugar. These are definitely a must-eat treat when you are in Lisbon.
we hated it, but we will try again tomorrow when we go to Belem where the dessert originated. Comparison shopping you know.
Just down the street from us a little Portuguese shop that had these cute mechanical moving figures displayed on a second level of the shop. We went in and bought a bottle of wine and a jar of olives for later.
Ended up dining out again tonight at another restaurant in the neighborhood
Another little jug of wine. Cheap but very good.
Veal for me. Good but maybe not as good as the stew last night. Again the entire meal was about 10 Euro
These places are tiny so the tables are butted up against each other. We met a lovely young Spanish girl who sat down next to us when we were about finished with our meal. We struck up a conversation with her and we chatted for quite awhile. We did not order dessert as we were too full, but our waiter brought us a little treat anyway. Forgot to take a picture until it was almost gone.
Ginja or Ginjinha as most people call it, is a liqueur made of a cherry-like berry called (not surprisingly) Ginja. The berries are fermented into a brandy that’s slightly bitter, slightly sweet and very sticky.
It was pretty good stuff
A good first day in Lisbon.
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